date Archives ~ NC Triangle Dining

August 5, 2018 by Ron Wen Leave a Comment

First Take: Mothers & Sons Trattoria Serves Up Italian That Nonna Would Approve

Front of Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

It’s hard to keep up with all the new restaurants in Durham! One of the newest is Mothers & Sons Trattoria brought to you by Matt Kelly-Josh DeCarolis (Mateo) and right next to their other new restaurant, Lucky Delicatessen. Given their success at Mateo, I was curious to try out Mothers & Sons and its Italian eats. Luckily I was able to convince a couple of friends and grab a reservation (the place is popular) and here’s how it all went down…

Cozy interior of Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

We show up at about 6:30pm on a Sunday night and the place is about 2/3 full. I really like what they’ve done with the interior here. Wood plank flooring, red stamped metal roof with matching air ducts along with a large section of stacked wood up by the kitchen. It all feels cozy, rustic and very well done, just like Mateo! We’re brought to a 4-top on the side, grab our menus to figure out a plan of attack for dinner. Mothers & Sons has a shorter list of hot and cold apps, pastas and entrees which is fine if it’s well done. And be aware that the menu relies heavily on Italian words so you may have questions for your server! Most of the apps and pastas are in the $8 to $12 range with entrees at $20 to $26. I go with some of my faves: arancini, cavatelli pasta with sausage along with the roast chicken.

Arancini at Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

Gnocchi plate at Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

After a short wait my arancini arrives along with some other starters for the table. The arancini consists of three perfectly fried balls sitting on I think, fava bean puree. The arancini (risotto balls) were a bit different here showing off a lot of toothsome density along with a smooth, crunchy coating. Good stuff! A plate of gnocchi next to me looked beautiful. Presented with prosciutto and a cheese sauce, the mix of colors and textures here are tantalizing to the eyes and appetite.

Cavatelli with sausage and di rabe at Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

Next up was the cavatelli with sausage, rapini and calabrian chiles. A very light dish prepared in a bit of broth, note that Mothers & Sons makes their pasta in-house and you can certainly tell by the texture and less than perfect shapes on the plate! This dish is excellent with warm, supple pasta set off by the meatiness of the sausage and the bitter of the greens, a classic dish. And the chiles give it just a bit of pop and heat on the palate.

Roast chicken entree at Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

For the entree I went with a 1/2 chicken which is roasted over wood along with some seared cauliflower and broccoli. Very nice but let’s face it, it’s hard to do chicken in a spectacular fashion! But given how well the overall meal has run, we opt to eat dessert here rather than hitting up Parlour for ice cream. And it’s a wise choice! At the table we’ve got some zeppoli in caramel sauce along with a lemon polenta cake with blueberry conserve and both are excellent! The zeppoli are soft and springy, paired perfectly with a deep caramel sauce. And I LOVE the polenta cake, it’s amazing. Light on the plate and drizzled with some olive oil and contrasted against the rich, fruity blueberry. A dollop of marscapone cheese on top makes it a wonderful combination of flavors and textures, delish!

Zeppoli and lemon polenta cake dessert at Mothers & Sons in Durham- NC Triangle Dining

All in all I can honestly say that here in the Triangle we are seeing a wonderful resurgence for Italian food in the dining scene and you can add Mothers & Sons Trattoria near the top of that list. It offers up excellent and real Italian food in a very comfortable setting that’s casual but a bit classy. And prices are right in the middle for Durham, you can probably save a bit if you focus on appetizers and pastas. But definitely don’t miss dessert here! So thanks so much Mothers & Sons for the surprising meal. Out of the two new restaurants on the street (Littler), I think you’re doing things just a bit better…

Mothers & Sons Trattoria

107 W Chapel Hill Street

Durham, NC 27701

919.294.8247

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May 28, 2017 by Ron Wen

First Take: Bloomsbury Bistro For Eclectic Eats and an Upscale Experience

Front of Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Front of Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

During a recent online discussion about classic Raleigh restaurants, Bloomsbury Bistro came up! And it made me realize that yes, this Raleigh favorite had eluded me for years, I was always given the impression that it was a special events/date type of restaurant. But given that I’ve been in the area 10 years, I figured I had run out of excuses to visit Bloomsbury Bistro, date or no date! So off I finally go to dine at an old Raleigh favorite, it must be doing something right after all these years. Let’s go find out what that is…

Dining room at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Dining room at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

I’ll be honest with you that even though I’ve lived about a mile away from Bloomsbury Bistro and Five Points, I had no clue where it really was. But it sits in a neat little plaza on Whitaker Mill Road behind the Rite Aid! Simple brick facade with white script lettering, the exterior is a bit deceiving. Inside Bloomsbury Bistro’s small dining room, you’ll find a hostess stand and bar with a nicely mature crowd. The sunny dining room sports a lovely summer mural which gives the space a bright and cheery feel. The spacing between tables is substantial so expect to have some privacy and easy conversation over dinner.

Dixie style crab rangoon at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Dixie style crab rangoon at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

Pork belly app at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Pork belly appetizer at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

Bloomsbury Bistro has a shorter, eclectic menu that spans the globe: crab rangoon, tandoori breast, Merguez sausage and tea leaf smoked duck. The wine list is also affordable in the $30 to $70 range, we go with a nice sauvignon blanc from Decoy. Scanning the dining room on a Tuesday night, most of the action is at the bar but I’m guessing it all turns around on the weekends. The wait staff is attired in classic black pants, white shirts with an apron. My starter of Dixie style crab rangoon is a plate of three perfectly fried, plump triangles of crab-stuffed goodness! Served with creamed corn and slaw, it’s a wonderful Southern spin on a Chinese-American classic. The crispy pork belly over corn hoe cake also looks fantastic drizzled with some smoky, chili barbeque sauce.

Lamb meatballs with merguez sausage at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Lamb meatballs with merguez sausage at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

While I was tempted by the tea-smoked duck, I opted for the lamb meatballs and Merguez sausage in tomato curry sauce with couscous. It’s a good looking dish with plenty for color and texture. The crunchy Marcona almonds provide a nice contrast to the savory and spice of this dish. The couscous is cooked perfectly and it’s all very satisfying and comforting. A scan around the table shows off a great Scottish salmon but I have to say the duck looks like the winner entree!

Scottish salmon with gnocchi at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Scottish salmon with gnocchi at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

Szechuan duck over noodles at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining — Szechuan duck over noodles at Bloomsbury Bistro in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

Well since it’s my first visit a Bloomsbury Bistro we finish off with the gooey butter cake, a Midwestern favorite served with pecan, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream! It’s wonderfully warm and rich, a simple but great finish to a sophisticated meal.

All in all I was pretty happy with Bloomsbury Bistro. It struck me as a cross between Plates Neighborhood Kitchen and Second Empire. Slightly more casual than the high-end Second Empire but fancier than Plates. It’s a gourmet restaurant for some civilized conversation, great service and a tasty meal. And it’s certainly a throw-back to a quieter dining room and personal service that’s less common in today’s more hip and raucous dining scene. So great to meet you Bloomsbury Bistro, I think I know the secret to your culinary longevity now…

Bloomsbury Bistro

509 W Whitaker Mill Road

Raleigh, NC 27608

919.834.9011

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July 23, 2016 by Ron Wen 1 Comment

First Take: A Cheese and Chocolate Experience at the Melting Pot in Raleigh

Front of Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Bread, cheese, meat and chocolate. That’s pretty much what fondue comes down to so who wouldn’t like it? And yet it seems like fondue is one of those food trends whose time has passed out of popularity. But you know what? It’s still a lot of fun and I’ve always enjoyed my fondue dining experiences. So I was glad to finally check out the venerable Melting Pot in Raleigh a while back. And while it may not be the BEST fondue in the area, it’s still pretty durn good!

Bar at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Located up on Wake Forest Road across from the Trader Joe’s, the Melting Pot is a bit mysterious from the outside. Darkened windows, small entry area, I’m in this plaza a LOT and still didn’t know what to expect inside. Up front, a hostess greets me and there’s a lounge and bar immediately up front. Small dining room to the left and then the main dining room to the right. It’s got a dimly lit, clubby and romantic feel to the space but feels a bit worn. We’re brought to a small 2-top with a single burner and L-shaped bench seating. I’m guessing that the Melting Pot is pretty popular for dates! (Note: The Melting Pot is currently running a summer special of 2 cheese fondue, 2 salads and 2 entrees for $39 until August 5.)

Making cheese fondue at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

The menu here like most fondue places gives you a TON of options. The typical meal is four courses: cheese, salad, meat/veggies and then chocolate. But the key here is the variety. Just like my fondue fave, the Little Dipper, the Melting Pot gives you the choice of 6 different cheese fondues, 4 different salads, 9 different entree fondue types, 4 cooking styles and then 8 different dessert-chocolate fondues. And you can also do a customized option for any of the above, phew! We go with a Chicago pizza style-cheese fondue, spinach and bacon salads and the jambalaya New Orleans fondue for the main. Menus down, please!

MeltingPotRaleigh-CheeseDippers — Dippers for cheese fondue at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

As we wait for our cheese course, I peer around the room and it’s mostly couples and families here at the Melting Pot. If you haven’t tried fondue before, just be aware that it’s a longish meal that’s meant to be slowly savored since you do your own cooking at the table! And your server is there not only for drinks but to also prep and mix the fondue table-side. For the cheese course, there’s a mix of fontina, mozzarella, parmesan, marinara sauce and basil. It’s served up with chunks of bread, apple and cauliflower, yummy…

Bacon-spinach salad at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Next up is the salad and it’s a fun and not-so-healthy option of spinach greens with bacon, apple and candied pecans. You can barely call it a salad which is why I enjoy it so much! Our main courses are brought out and my friend has gone vegetarian while I’ve gone gumbo-style with Cajun seasoned sausage, shrimp, filet mignon and shrimp. Cooking times range from 1 to 3 minutes in the pot and you’ve got three skewers to manage your meal. Watch your eats closely or else it may over-cook or get plundered from the shared fondue pot! The Melting Pot does make the ordering easier by offering up an array of 7 favorite sauces ranging from bleu cheese, green goddess, yellow curry, teriyaki, spicy sauce and more. It’s fun cooking mah meat and then doing some sauce dipping to find the right flavor combo!

Veggies and meats for dipping at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Broth fondue at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

And then finally we’re on to the dessert course, I’ve gone with the caramel toffee crunch which is flambeed with some 151 rum to heat it through. An assortment of pound cake, strawberries and fruit are paired up with this luscious and decadent chocolate sauce to finish up the evening.

Chocolate fondue at Melting Pot in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

All in all a fun night at the Melting Pot which is usually the case when it comes to fondue! And while the Melting Pot is a chain, it holds up well for the fondue experience. Service throughout the evening was attentive and timely, kudos there. Where it falls a bit short compared to my fave, Little Dipper in Durham, is the interior and quality of ingredients. It just feels a bit more special at the Little Dipper while the Melting Pot does have a more corporate feel. But still, you’ll have a fun time here, dipping yo eats and doing dinner in bite-sized portions. The Melting Pot is still a great spot for dates and families so don’t forget about this fondue option in the Triangle!

Melting Pot, Raleigh

3100 Wake Forest Road

Raleigh, NC 27609

919.878.0477

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February 3, 2016 by Ron Wen Leave a Comment

First Take: Gonza Tacos y Tequila Heads to the Hills

Sign for Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

When you talk about Mexican and Latin American fare, Gonza Tacos y Tequila has been a long-time favorite up in N. Raleigh. But its location was just too far away to make it worthwhile to me for a visit. Flash-forward to this past week and this rapidly expanding Mexican chain has finally moved downtown in a brand spanking new location at the Aloft Hotel. So it was time to FINALLY see what Gonza Tacos y Tequila is all about…

Cool interior at Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Located on a busy corner of Hillsborough Street, parking is quite limited for a visit but be aware that Gonza has a retail/hotel private lot behind the building off of Maiden Lane. Once you find parking, you’ll be dazzled by what lies behind the doors of Gonza. An innocuous and discrete frontage opens into a kaleidoscope of colors and decor.

Dining room at Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

The rustic interior is amped up with an Andy Warhol-like Dia de los Muertos portraiture, modern wine bar area and a turquoise blue mural behind the bar. Bright star-shaped lights twinkle above and the front face of Gonza opens up to the sidewalk outside. Very well-designed space with a lot of color and charm.

Chips and queso at Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

I grab a seat at the bar and peruse the lunch menu which is pretty tight. I order up some queso ($5) and carnitas tacos ($11). Chips and salsa are also brought out for lunch and it’s a solid rendition. Looking around the Gonza dining room, the place is already quite busy in their 2nd week of being opened so I’m guessing they must have a pretty good reputation!

Carnitas tacos at Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

My tacos come out next, served on a long platter with leaf underneath and a side of rice. The tacos come with a single corn tortilla and are nicely stuffed but a bit small. Sprinkle of onion and cilantro on top with a side of green tomatilla sauce. The tacos are tasty with some fattiness underneath which I’d expect for carnitas. Pretty basic and par for the course, the rice is made with a bit of cilantro (I think) and corn for some extra flavor and color.

Place mat at Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Service at the bar was excellent but hey, I was sitting with their marketing manager so no shock there and I was unexpectedly comp’ed for my lunch. In the end, I like what they’re doing here but need to come back for a re-visit and see if they’re willing to push the food and spice envelope a bit more. And for lunch it was a bit pricey for what you get but the lease here has got to be some money, eh?

Colorful bar at Gonza Tacos y Tequila in Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

My concern is that when you get a great-looking place like they new Gonza Tacos, the food and flavors get sanitized a bit to appeal to a broader, upscale audience. And Latin American food needs to have a punch of earthiness, spice and flavors in my opinion. So right now Gonza is getting four stars for me leaning on their decor and service more than their food. We’ll see how visit #2 plays out!

Gonza Tacos y Tequila @Aloft Hotel

2100 Hillsborough Street

Raleigh, NC 27607

919.268.8965

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November 11, 2015 by Ron Wen 2 Comments

Media Event: The Spotlight Shines Bright on Trilogy Restaurant in Chapel Hill

Front of Silverspot Cinema in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining — Front of Cinema in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

Over the past year or so, movie-watching has taken a huge leap forward in the Triangle with the new Cinebistro in Cary and not to be outdone in Chapel Hill, the new Trilogy Restaurant at Silverspot Cinema! A smaller, privately-held luxe-cinema chain, Silverspot has several locations in Florida and has moved up north to Chapel Hill for its first NC cinema. So while I hadn’t heard much about Silverspot, I was excited to check it out for its facilities and also its new house restaurant, Trilogy! So off I headed to Chapel Thrill on a cold, wet Monday evening…

Hallways at Silverspot Cinema in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

From the outside, Silverspot Cinemas presents a sleek and modern front. Cool, brushed silver facing with bright white lighting and logo. Inside you’ll find Trilogy restaurant near the entrance on the left. But I was here a bit early, so we took off on a quick cinema tour with head of marketing, Randi! The movie-watching set-up here is a bit different than Cinebistro. Large leather luxury seating but you need to bring your food in from concessions or Trilogy. The seating also sports wide ottomans in front instead of motorized leg-rests. And the seating seemed to be primarily in pairs with no arm-rests in between which I guess is better for snuggling, eh? But overall it’s a similar concept with plenty of comfortable seating. Randi also has plans to bring an international film festival to the area so keep your eyes out on this woman!

Bar at Trilogy in Silverspot Cinema, Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining — Bar at Trilogy Restaurant, Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

Back at Trilogy, I grab a beer at the bar which is long, stylish and sophisticated. Just be aware that it’s pretty pricey at $8 for a pint of Deep River stout which is not too surprising. But it’s a cool lounge to just hang out in before your movie!

Chef Ed at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

I’m pretty excited to learn more about the David Burke Food Group which is running the restaurant along with Chef Ed Brothers who will run this kitchen. Chef Ed has an impressive culinary resume ranging from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris to mentorships under Charlie Trotter, Gordon Ramsay, Thomas Keller and David Burke! The man definitely has some talent with the food here.

Deviled egg at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

A group of 8 of us move into the dining room and are given menus. Appetizers at Trilogy run from $6 – $12 with entrees in the $12 – $25 range and the menu is focused on American classics with a twist. We start off with some great appetizers off the menu: deviled eggs, crab-cakes and their popular kung pao calamari! The deviled egg is lovingly presented in an Asian soup spoon topped with some crisp NC prosciutto which is EXCELLENT! The cool egg contrasted against the creamy yolk and crispy-salty meat is wonderous, a great thumbs-up here.

Crab-cake at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

Kung-pao calamari at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

Next up is the flavorful crab-cake with some green apple slaw which is very nice but not quite a stand-out. But the kung pao calamari?! Wow, very delicious and different. The calamari is prepared in such a way that it has a slightly crunchy coating underneath the sauce which then lies on top of VERY tender calamari. It was so tender I thought I was eating chicken and I love the presentation with black-white sesame seeds and chopsticks. The sauce is not so spicy, slightly sweet but very tasty.

BLT lobster roll at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

Steak at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

For my main I keep things sorta simple. While the rest of the table is ordering steak, I go with the more “basic” lobster roll which as you can see, is not so basic. Served on a brioche roll with tarragon mayo, tomato and bacon, they are nicely grilled on the outside with butter and flavorful without being heavy. Definitely a spin on the traditional New England lobster roll but I can appreciate this modern sensibility.

Cheesecake pops at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

To finish up the evening, the famous cheesecake lollipop tree is brought out and these are amaze-balls! While they are small and tidy, each pop is loaded with flavor whether it’s chocolate or strawberry. Served with some bubble-gum whipped cream, it’s a decadent ending to the meal with lots of luscious mouth-feel. But of course they couldn’t resist sneaking one final dessert out, a lovely tiramisu but don’t miss out on that lollipop tree!

Tiramisu at Trilogy in Chapel Hill- NC Triangle Dining

We finish up the evening trading business cards and saying good-bye. Thank you so much Chef Ed, General Manager Seth and Randi for a lovely and delicious evening! Compared to Cinebistro which I got to preview, the food and fare at Trilogy is definitely a solid step up. I would quantify it as maybe a 4 1/2 star restaurant from a dining standpoint which is pretty durn good for its location. So if you live in Chapel Hill and enjoy your movies and food, I think you’d be hard-pressed to find a better evening than dinner at Trilogy and a movie at Silverspot. Having previously lived in the area I can say that you’ve now got a very ambitious and cool entertainment option in the Thrill. Enjoy it and don’t miss out, my Carolina friends!

Trilogy Restaurant at Silverspot Cinema

201 S Estes Drive #100

Chapel Hill, NC 27514

919.357.9887

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First Take: Mothers & Sons Trattoria Serves Up Italian That Nonna Would Approve