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November 6, 2018 by Ron Wen

Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – An Updated and Local Spin on Chinese Cuisine

Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com

Over the years, Durham’s food scene has been pretty progressive in my experience. Taking chances and trying out new concepts before other areas of the Triangle get them. And one eatery that had slipped off my radar screen was Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets. This quirky business had started in 2013 as a butcher shop and cafe but pivoted in 2017 to primarily a restaurant. And I admit that I was always confused about its initial incarnation as a “meats and sweets” shop. But Durham friends of mine, seemed to like the place so I kept it on my ToEat list. After a couple of visits, I’ve got a pretty good feel for what they are doing at Rose’s but yes, the quirkiness still exists here along with some solid Eastern Asian eats.

Kitchen at Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Kitchen at Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com

While Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets (RNDS) is in downtown Durham, the location is actually a bit hidden on Gregson and out of sight from Main Street. But head on over to its busy corner lot and you’ll find a low, white-brick building with a sign hanging out front. Inside Rose’s you’ll find a casual cafe type set-up with limited seating. An open kitchen exposes all the culinary action to patrons with bar seating up front. A smattering of 2-tops line the rest of the dining space, you’ll have to check in with a hostess for a seat in either spot. And a small bakery area and cash register caps off the space in front. It’s all very energetic and simple, good for people-watching.

Taking a look at Rose’s paper menu you’ll quickly realize that the food is East-Asian inspired. While the menu items are fairly classic in name, Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets takes some liberty subbing in local ingredients to give it a more regional appeal. There are a handful of regular items like buns-bao, dumplings along with their popular house-made Shan-xi (thick) noodles. The menu rotates quite a bit given the seasonality of ingredients that Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets relies on. And I’m pretty sure that Rose’s is focused on more Northern Chinese fare which typically is a bit spicier and plays a bit with chile oils.

Steamed pork bun at Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Steamed pork bun at Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com
Pork belly and dumplings at Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Pork belly and dumplings at Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com

For a starter, try out their popular steamed pork bun which has more of a tan texture vs. the typically white buns you’d find in Chinatown. Nicely steamed with a good texture, these buns have a slightly different filling, focusing on a spicier pork rather then the usual red-roasted pork. Their sliced pork belly is served up in a nice broth with plenty of scallions which is a nice treat if you find it on the menu!

Dumplings in chili oil at Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Dumplings in chili oil at Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com

And of course, how can you miss Rose’s namesake dumplings? I’ve tried a couple of types, the basic dumplings in chili oil and the pork and ginger dumplings. In both cases, you’ll find a soft and supple dumpling that’s been boiled and served in a spicy sauce. Tip your hat, I’m pretty sure all these dumplings are hand-made and folded in-house but I do find the skins here at Roses Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets to be on the thicker side. Thin dumpling skins are definitely a sign of some skill, they provide a more tender outside but have to hold up to the cooking process which can be tough.

Shan xi noodle bowl at Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Shan xi noodle bowl at Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com

Next up at Rose’s are their hand-pulled noodles which are thick and have some chew. Served in a variety of broths and toppings, it makes for a filling meal, perfect for colder weather! And after all this Chinese food if you’re still hungry, dive into some of Rose’s pastries or try their super popular hand-made ice cream sandwiches. They look fantastic on Instagram but I have yet to try one myself, yet.

Baked goods at Roses's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham - nctriangledining.com
Baked goods at Roses’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets in Durham – nctriangledining.com

Now in the end, I’ve enjoyed my meals at Roses Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets even though it might not be authentic. Given I grew up on Chinese cuisine, I’ve got a pretty broad perspective on what they are trying to do here. Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets gets close but spins things up in the end with local ingredients. While the overall concepts and flavors may be true to form, the end product is definitely different than what you would likely get at a big city Chinese restaurant. Which makes it a real challenge for me to review them. Is it tasty food? Sure. And the culinary talent is certainly trying to respect all that goes into authentic Chinese fare, here. But there’s part of me that feels that there’s something missing. I think that’s always a challenge when trying to spin up food that’s meant to be hearty, comfort food for the masses. Sometimes you’re better off leaving it just as it is!

 

Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings and Sweets

121 N Gregson Street

Durham, NC 27701

919.797.2233

Location on Google maps

Filed Under: Durham, Restaurant & Bar Reviews Tagged With: Chinese

September 9, 2018 by Ron Wen

First Take: Peking Duck and Dumplings in Raleigh for Authentic Chinese Fare

Front of Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Front of Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

When it comes to Chinese food in the Triangle, it can be a bit hard! Given I grew up on the cuisine and have been eating Chinese food since I was a young lad, my expectations are relatively high for what I consider to be a “mother cuisine”. And to be honest with you, it’s pretty hard to find decent Chinese food in the Triangle outside of a handful of options. So color me surprised when I heard about a new spot on Hillsborough Street called Peking Duck and Dumplings. Online mentions of this new restaurant had me guessing that it was a real deal, Chinese hole in the wall type eatery, probably started to feed the student population studying from overseas. And after a couple of visits to the new Peking Duck and Dumplings, I can say that the initial guess I had was pretty close to the truth…

Basic interior at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Basic interior at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

First of all, if you live in the area, you know how busy Hillsborough Street can be for construction. New buildings, new traffic circles, Peking Duck and Dumplings location near Dixie Trail Road is particularly bad for traffic and parking. I’d recommend side-street parking on the northern side of Hillsborough outside of a few lucky spots you may find on the street. So you’ll need some patience before you even get into Peking Duck and Dumplings. Its location at 2811 Hillsborough Street used to be Pho Vietnam and there are a couple of parking spots in back.

Specials menu at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Specials menu at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

Peking Duck and Dumplings would be best qualified as a simple cafe set-up with white tile floors and a handful of 4-tops scattered about. The light and bright space is very utilitarian and speaks to the food that is served here. Both the staff and customers are primarily Asian and Chinese but in my mind, that just means more authentic eats! Be aware that the staff may have limited English skills so it may be tough to get detailed descriptions of menu items, I’d suggest checking out the menu beforehand. And also be aware that they do not have Peking duck (just plain roasted duck) on the menu, the food here is primarily Taiwanese and N. Chinese.

Pan-fried buns at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Pan-fried buns at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

Given all these hurdles, I can also say that Peking Duck and Dumplings is totally worth the effort, still. The menu ranges from noodle soups to rice plates and more. All under $14 so very reasonable prices for authentic Chinese eats. There’s also a specials whiteboard up front so don’t miss what they’re offering here. I’d recommend starting off with some nice pan-fried pork dumplings. These bad-boys are steamed and then crisped up (pan-fried) underneath giving you a soft and crispy contrast when you bite in. The tender pork filling is nicely done for a good ratio of bao to meat.

Scallion pancakes with beef at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Scallion pancakes with beef at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

Probably my favorite dish at Peking Duck and Dumplings is the scallion pancakes with beef! While you may have tried scallion pancakes before this preparation is a bit different, adding in thinly sliced beef shank (with a hint of five spice) and layered with hoisin sauce! It’s like a Chinese sandwich with a crispy outside, tender and savory inside and a hint of sweet from the sauce, very tasty and totally authentic.

Roast duck and pork rice plate at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Roast duck and pork rice plate at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

Another classic dish that’s really good if you’re not used to more authentic Chinese eats is the roast duck and roast pork plate. Just a serving of rice with sweet and tender duck along with slices of the familiar red glazed, roast pork make for a great meal. The duck can be a bit fatty so baby bok choy is presented on the side as your veggie and green for the dish.

Beef noodle soup w tendon at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh - nctriangledining.com
Beef noodle soup w tendon at Peking Duck & Dumplings in Raleigh – nctriangledining.com

The noodle dishes here at Peking Duck and Dumplings are also super authentic. Long noodles in a beef broth with beef shank and/or tendon. The tendon is slow-braised for a soft and sticky, unctuous texture making for a heart-warming dish. Again, not for everyone but if you’re so inclined, you’ll love it. Service at Peking Duck and Dumplings is personable and efficient but again, the staff may have limited English. Given the primarily Asian clientele here, it’s usually not an issue but be aware! So thank you to Peking Duck and Dumplings for bringing super tasty and authentic Chinese food to downtown Raleigh. You’re a rare little find and I hope you do well in this difficult location. But I promise that I will be back soon to try more off that delicious menu…

 

Peking Duck and Dumplings

2811 Hillsborough Street

Raleigh, NC 27607

919.222.2880

Location on Google maps

Filed Under: Raleigh, Restaurant & Bar Reviews Tagged With: Chinese, nc state

June 8, 2017 by Ron Wen

Retake: Dim Sum House in Morrisville, a Decent Option for Chinese Small Plates!

Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

When it comes to authentic Chinese food in the Triangle, your choices are few and far between. And when it comes to Cantonese eats and dim sum, it gets even harder! If you’re a fan of these Chinese small plates for brunch, you know that it’s a special treat. Steamed and fried goodies served lickety split off of carts, typically on the weekend. In the area, we’ve had some restaurants try it from time to time but the most consistent options for dim sum have been the Hong Kong out in Durham and Dim Sum House in Morrisville. When it first opened up, Dim Sum House did a great job with its food, a bit lower for service. Changes in ownership and the chefs left me scratching my head at the decline in food quality over the years. But eventually I got curious and figured it was time to see where Dim Sum House was at!

Dining room at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Dining room at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

I slide in for lunch on a Wednesday afternoon and the restaurant is pretty quiet. Dim Sum House hasn’t changed much on the inside. Same yellow walls with green carpeting, it all feels a bit worn but clean. I’m seated at a booth near a window and handed two menus along with a paper slip. One menu and the paper slip are for ordering up dim-sum. If you’re not familiar with dim-sum, the prices are by the size of the plate: small-medium-large at prices of $2.95-$3.55-$3.95. And dim-sum tends to come in two main types of preparation: steamed and fried, it also typically is heavy on ground pork and shrimp so if you’re kosher you’re out of luck!

Tofu skin rolls at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Tofu skin rolls at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

Given I’m dining solo, I try to constrain myself to three plates which should be puh-lenty! The first dish out of Dim Sum House’s kitchen is the tofu skin rolls. A bit different than what I expected, these rolls aren’t braised and have more a pan-fried, crisp skin around a shrimp filling. But they’re pretty decent and well-stuffed so I’m good with this dish.

Pan-fried buns at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Pan-fried buns at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

Shu-mai at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Shu-mai at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

Next up are the pan-fried buns. These are steamed and then pan-fried a bit to give it a crispy bottom. Stuffed with ground pork, these buns are nicely done at Dim Sum House but I’m not a 100% sure they are made in-house based on the texture of their bottoms. I’ll have to dig in further and find out. And finally the dim-sum classic, shu-mai dumplings! These are open-faced shrimp dumplings steamed in a yellow wrapper. Dim Sum House does a solid job here with a LOT of filling but it’s missing a bit of complexity like a hit of ginger. But totally acceptable for lunch, it’s a robust dish. Note that Dim Sum House has a separate lunch menu of some more typical Chinese-American dishes if dim-sum is not your thang!

Har-gow and steamed roast pork buns at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Har-gow and steamed roast pork buns at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining
Fried shrimp balls at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Fried shrimp balls at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

I’ve already been back for a second visit and managed to try some solid steamed pork buns, delicious har gow and fried shimp balls. Again, everything was tasty, well-stuffed and prepared decently. I’d qualify the dim-sum here as OK but for the Triangle?! It’s quite good…

Front counter at Dim Sum House in Morrisville - NC Triangle Dining
Front counter at Dim Sum House in Morrisville – NC Triangle Dining

Service at Dim Sum House was very good for both lunches but the test will be on the weekends when they’re busy. The dining room has opened up quite a bit, gone are the round 8-tops meaning it will feel like more of a civilized meal when dining here. But yes, they did a solid job for lunch and I need to get back here for a busy weekend meal. Dim-sum is traditionally a weekend offering and I suspect there will be a much higher volume resulting in fresher food out of the kitchen! And there are certain dim-sum items on the menu that are only available on the weekend. So rock on, Dim Sum House! It’s good to know that you’re still doing dim-sum for the Triangle and I’m looking forward to my next visit here and trying more off of the Cantonese menu…

 

Dim Sum House

100 Jerusalem Dr #104

Morrisville, NC 27560

919.380.3087

 

Location on Google maps

Filed Under: Morrisville, Restaurant & Bar Reviews, Retakes Tagged With: Chinese, dim-sum

April 5, 2017 by Ron Wen

First Take: Brewery Bhavana, a Fun and Flavor-Filled Journey to Great Dim Sum and Beer in Raleigh

Front of Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Front of Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

Given the success for Bida Manda in Raleigh, many of us in the food scene awaited Act II with bated breath: Brewery Bhavana. Conceived as a brewery/floral shop/dim-sum eatery, I scratched my head a bit and wondered how exactly this place would be executed. And I admit to being a fan of all three separately, but together it was an unusual combination! I watched the construction spin up on Blount Street near Moore Square in the old Tir Na Nog space over the past several months and popped my head in during the soft open for family and friends. Not yet, sir! We’re opening on Wednesday. So it was time to wait a bit more, but I was able to visit Brewery Bhavana on Day 2 of its official opening week. Here’s how it all went down…

Beer bar at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Beer bar at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

From the outside, Brewery Bhavana looks pretty unassuming but that’s no different that the previous tenant here. Right beyond those double doors is the hostess kiosk with a couple of pleasant ladies there ready to direct you into the new space. Brewery Bhavana is divided into thirds: to the left the beer bar, center third holds the floral area and library and to the right, the dining area. We put in for a table and then head over to bar to grab a brewski. The beer bar is the first surprise, decked out in a lot of whites and creams. No gaudy beer taps, it’s all very sleek and minimalist here at Brewery Bhavana. They’ve got a list of their house offerings on a small sign on the left-hand side of the bar. I try a light IPA which is well brewed and hopped. We’re off to a good start!

Florist and library area at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Florist and library area at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

We’ve got a 45 minute wait tonight so we wander over to the florist-library area which also includes some tables for dining and one long communal table. The library is for browsing only and this area is a bit more green and lush to reflect the floral side of the business. Overall it’s hard to believe that this space is the same space that once held Tir Na Nog, a classic Irish pub. After wandering around a bit, we get the text message for our table and head over to the main dining room.

Dining room at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Dining room at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

In the main dining room the feel doesn’t change much from the first two rooms. White globe lighting overhead, rattan chairs, there’s a cool wood geometric chandelier over a large group table in back but otherwise it’s business as usual. We’re handed over the menu, a quick scan shows off a variety of dim-sum plates and Chinese favorites. Prices are in the $7 to $11 range for small plates with one notable exception, the Peking Duck at $45! Given the excitement and long wait for Brewery Bhavana, we ordered up 4 small plates and of course the signature dish.

Scallion pancakes with marrow at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Scallion pancakes with marrow at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining
Xian bing (meat pies) at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Xian bing (meat pies) at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

Even though it’s only day 2 for Brewery Bhavana, the place is bustling, they’ve got a full menu and seem well-staffed so kudos to the team here for making sure the place is ready. We start off with the steamed dishes, xiao long bao (soup dumplings) and shu mai. The soup dumplings are decent but unfortunately, not really juicy. When done well, they burst in your mouth with broth, oh well. And the shumai is fine with four in the plate, perfect for sharing. Next up is the scallion pancakes and xian bing (meat pie). The pancakes are served with marrow which is a bit untraditional but tasty. The pancakes themselves are denser, thicker than what you’d typically get but still display the characteristic swirl to the surface. And the meat pies are nicely browned and fried with a tasty pork filling, a good option for the meal.

Peking duck at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Peking duck at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

But let’s face it, we’re all just really waiting for the Peking duck! It comes out on a large platter served up with 7 or so steamed buns, scallions and hoisin sauce. The skin is served separately from the meat and the duck drums are served up whole. You typically stuff the bun with some crispy skin and meat, add a dab of pungent hoisin sauce and then top with the scallion to make a flavorful and fatty sandwich! The duck here at Brewery Bhavana is solid and certainly worth the money and time, especially if you’ve never tried Peking duck.

Dinner at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh - NC Triangle Dining
Dinner at Brewery Bhavana in Raleigh – NC Triangle Dining

It’s hard for a place like Brewery Bhavana to meet up with the heightened expectations that the Triangle had for its opening but I felt it certainly did. While the concept of beer bar, florist and dim-sum restaurant is tough to wrap your brain around, they’ve done a nice job overall! My interpretation of the restaurant and space is that Brewery Bhavana will be a comfortable casual spot to drop in for a beer and small plates. And I’m sure the concept will evolve as they continue to find their groove. So thanks for the great Peking duck, Brewery Bhavana! While it may not have been the best dim-sum I’ve ever had, it’s great to even have that option here in downtown Raleigh.

 

Brewery Bhavana

218 S Blount Street

Raleigh, NC 27601

919.829.9998

Brewery Bhavana menu

Location on Google maps

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Filed Under: Raleigh, Restaurant & Bar Reviews Tagged With: Chinese, dim-sum

April 2, 2016 by Ron Wen Leave a Comment

First Take: Jade Garden, Trying Harder But…

Front of Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining
Front of Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

When it comes to Chinese food, I’m just a little picky. Coming from a Chinese family and with a mom who was a fantastic cook means the bar is set pretty high for my Asian and Chinese eats. But I can appreciate everything from ethnic Chinese to Chinese-American and more. But there IS a line on the low end still. I had hit up Jade Garden when I first moved to Raleigh in 2008 in hopes of finding an inexpensive, fast Chinese-American take-out joint in the hood. Located on Hillsborough Street at the first circle, Jade Garden sits in an older set of store-fronts on the east side of Hillsborough. Online reviews say the place has been refreshed so it’s time for a re-visit after 6+ years!

Inside of Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining
Inside of Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

Due to its tight and busy location, Jade Garden has a small lot on the side for patrons, maybe 9 or so spots. I park there and hoof it around the corner and up front there’s a sign proclaiming “Under new management.” So at least the online reviews got that part right. Same beaten up signage up front in yellow and green, it feels like an 80’s throw-back. Inside Jade Garden, the place has been refreshed. New carpet (I think), redone booths and some bright Chinese decor around the space. It’s a small dining room, maybe holding 20 people or so.

Egg-drop soup at Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining
Egg-drop soup at Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

I get seated at a booth and look at the lunch menu.  $7 for a entree (10 or so choices) along with soup and eggroll. I go with the egg-drop soup and garlic chicken for lunch. Immediately a plate of fried won-ton noodles get brought over with sweet-sour sauce, old-school baby!  But who can resist these crunchy, greasy noodle chips? The egg-drop soup is fine, a warm serving of broth with swirls of egg and not too much salt. Next the lunch entree comes up and it’s a decent portion of tender white meat chicken mixed with broccoli, zucchini, peppers, bamboo shoots and more. A small pile of brown fried rice and a commercial (probably frozen) egg roll. It’s your typical Americanized Chinese meal and the common theme I see in this style of food is a syrupy sauce, most likely requiring fructose, that seems to be a common denominator in this category of Chinese eats. It’s not awful but certainly not what any home-cook would normally use.

Garlic chicken lunch at Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining
Garlic chicken lunch at Jade Garden, Raleigh- NC Triangle Dining

I finish my meal (most of it, sans egg roll) and pay up. Service at Jade Garden was sweet and attentive so thank you there! But the reality is that while Jade Garden has refreshed its interior, the food hasn’t changed much from what I remember. It’s still super Americanized, typical American-Chinese food. I would still prefer to hit up Peace China over at Seaboard in lieu of dining here and dealing with the parking situation. In the end, like many restaurants on Hillsborough Street, it’s designed to please college students and their basic dining needs. And there’s nothing wrong with that, just understand what you’re getting before you make an effort to get over here.

 

Jade Garden

1207 Hillsborough Street

Raleigh, NC 27603

919.594.1813

Location on Google maps

Save

Filed Under: Raleigh, Restaurant & Bar Reviews Tagged With: Chinese, nc state

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